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Possible Causes:

  1. Burner orifice is clogged
  2. Burner orifice diameter is too small
  3. inlet gas pressure is too low

Corrective Actions

  1. Clean burner orifice (see Care and Maintenance of your Owners Manual)
  2. Replace burner orifice.
  3. Contact local gas supplier.

If a “click” is heard and the burners do not light, check the batteries and re-link the remote and receiver. If the burner still will not light, test the solenoid as follows:

NOTE: Removal of the panel in front of the solenoid maybe necessary to access the wires and solenoid

1. Solenoid “torqued” too tight:

  • With a flat-head screwdriver, turn the solenoid counter-clockwise to loosen.
  • Turn solenoid clockwise until thumb-tight.
  • Re-connect the wires.

2. 9-Volt Battery Test:

  • Pilot lit, control knob in the “on” position.
  • Disconnect the receiver from the solenoid ( do not remove from gas valve)
  • Place red wire to negative (-) side of battery / black wire to positive (+):

Burner lights, switch the wires on battery to turn “off” - replace receiver box


Never use a wire, needle or similar object to clean ODS / pilot. This can damage the unit)


Possible Causes:

  1. Not enough fresh air is available.
  2. Low line pressure
  3. ODS / pilot is partially clogged.

Corrective Action:

  1. Open window and / or door for ventilation.
  2. Contact local gas supplier.
  3. Clean ODS / pilot (See Care and Maintenance in your Owners Manual)

Possible Cause:

  1. Control knob is not fully pressed in.
  2. Control knob is not pressed in long enough.
  3. Equipment shutoff valve is not fully open
  4. Thermocouple Connection is loose at control valve.
  5. Pilot flame not touching thermocouple, which allows thermocouple to cool, causing pilot flame to go out. This problem could be cause by one or both of the following.
    A) Low gas pressure.
    B) Dirty or partially clogged ODS / Pilot.
  6. Thermocouple damaged
  7. Control valve damaged.

Corrective Action:

  1. Press in control knob fully.
  2. After ODS / Pilot light, keep control knob pressed in 30 seconds.
  3. Fully open equipment shutoff valve.
  4. Hand tighten until snug, and then tighten 1/4 turn more.
  5. A) Contact local natural or propane / LP gas company
    B) Clean ODS / Pilot (See Care and Maintenance in owners Manual)
    or replace ODS / pilot assembly.
  6. Replace thermocouple
  7. Replace control valve.


  • Original Box
  • Owner’s Manual – Top Right
  • Wall Heaters: Hang tags on steel cable or sticker on the side.
  • Gas Logs – Hang tags on steel cable under the grate.
  • Fireplaces – Hang tags on steel cable on back of unit or inside the louver door area.

Serial #: White Sticker approx. 1?2” x 21?2”

  • Original Box
  • Warranty Registration Card
  • Wall Heaters: Hang tags on steel cable or sticker on the side
  • Gas Logs – Hang tags on steel cable under the grate.
  • Fireplaces – Hang tags on steel cable on back of unit or inside the louver door area.

Linking remote to receiver:

  • Light pilot & set control knob to “on”.
  • Slide switch on the receiver box “on/off”: the burner should go on and off.
  • Place the receiver slide switch to the “remote” position.
  • Press “LEARN” button (right side) to get (1) beep.
  • Step Back 3+ Ft. and press “on” on the remote – series of beeps (receiver and remote linked)

Setting Temperature: Press “mode” (“Room” displayed)

  • Press “set” for temperature

Possible Cause:

  1. Gas supply is turned off or equipment shutoff valve is closed.
  2. Control knob not fully pressed in while pressing igniter button
  3. Air in gas lines when installed.
  4. ODS / pilot is clogged
  5. Incorrect inlet gas pressure or inlet regulator is damaged.
  6. Control knob not in PILOT position.
  7. Depleted gas supply (propane)

Corrective Action:

  1. Turn on gas supply or open equipment shutoff valve.
  2. Fully press in control knob while pressing igniter button.
  3. Continue holding down control knob. Repeat igniting operation until air is removed.
  4. Clean ODS / pilot (See Care and Maintenance in Owner Manual) or replace ODS / Pilot assembly.
  5. Check inlet gas pressure or replace inlet gas regulator.
  6. Tun control knob to PILOT position.
  7. Contact local propane / LP gas company.

WARNING: Only a qualified service technician should service and repair heater. Make sure that power is turned off before proceeding. Turn off and let cool before servicing. 

Possible Causes:

  1. Not enough air.
  2. Gas regulator is defective.
  3. Inlet gas pressure is too low.

Corrective Actions:

  1. Check burner for dirt and debris. If found, clean burner (see Care and Maintenance of your Owners Manual)
  2. Replace gas regulator.
  3. Contact local gas supplier.

Most states in the US allow for the sale and installation of vent-free “supplemental” gas heat appliances.

ProCom Vent-free products are equipped with an ODS pilot assembly, precision-engineered burners for clean burn and a non-adjustable regulator to prevent over-firing. The purpose of the ODS is to shut off the supply of gas to the heater/fireplace when the oxygen level drops below 18%.

All major building codes categorize vent-free as “supplemental heat”. Local codes may vary. California does not currently permit the use of vent-free installation. For more information refer to: www.ventfree.org

Possible causes:

  1. Igniter electrode is positioned wrong. Igniter electrode is broken
  2. Igniter electrode is not connected to igniter cable.
  3. Igniter cable is pinched or wet.
  4. Broken igniter cable
  5. Bad Piezo igniter.

Corrective Action:

  1. Replace pilot assembly
  2. Replace igniter cable
  3. Free igniter cable if pinched by any metal or tubing, keep igniter cable dry.
  4. Replace igniter cable.
  5. Replace piezo igniter.

The minimum requirement is a 100 lb. tank. If a smaller tank is used the propane liquid does not have enough pressure to vaporize, the heater may begin to run improperly. This can also damage the internal regulator.

The amount of propane gas ready for use from propane tanks varies. Two factors decide this amount:

1. The amount of propane gas in tank(s)
2. The temperature of tank(s)

The colder the outside temperature, the slower the vaporization rate of the propane, the LP inside the tank will not vaporize fast enough to operate the appliance and will create frost on the outside of the tank and cause the unit to shut down due to the lack of fuel.

IMPORTANT: The only exception is the ProCom Ice House Heater, which uses a minimum 20 lb. tank.

Possible Causes:

  1. Not enough combustion / ventilation air.

Corrective Action:

  1. Refer to Air for Combustion and Ventilation requirements in your Owners Manual.

Vent-Free products typically produce an odor during initial operation. This will subside after 2-8 hours burn time. Determine what kind of odor (most of the time it is not a gas leak but impurities in the air).
The following are examples that can affect new and existing installation:


Improper log placement.
Chemical impurities introduced to the environment such as:

  • Paint
  • Furniture polish
  • Odor from garage
  • “Off” gassing from new home construction
  • Christmas trees
  • Odor from basement
  • Air fresheners
  • Cleaning chemicals
  • Shoe polish


  • Gas Leak: Shut the unit off. Licensed plumber or the gas company needs to check all connections to the gas valve, pilot assembly, burner and regulator.
  • Regulator: Installer can crack the regulator by over torqueing the connection.
  • Plaque Heaters: Chips or cracks – No replacement (Under Warranty – return unit)
  • Gas Valve: Leaking around knob – Replace valve
  • Burner: No replacement (Under Warranty – return unit)

CAUTION: Never use a wire, needle, or similar object to clean pilot / ODS. This can damage ODS / Pilot unit!

Possible Cause:

  1. Manifold pressure is too low
  2. Burner orifice is clogged

Corrective Action:

  1. Contact local gas supplier.
  2. Clean burner (See Care and Maintenance in your Owners Manual)

Vented heating requires ventilation to the outside, either through piping or a damper in an existing fireplace.

Vent-free heating does not require ventilation. ProCom does not guarantee their Vent-Free products to operate correctly above 4500 Ft. above sea level. Customers may experience pilot outages and performance problems with the product.

Both types of heating are safe provided the specific unit has been certified and installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Caution: Never use a wire, needle or similar object to clean ODS / pilot. This can damage to unit. 

Possible Cause:

  1. Turning control knob to high position when burner is cold.
  2. Air in gas line
  3. Air passageways on heater are blocked
  4. Dirty or partially clogged burner orifice.

Corrective Action:

  1. Turn control knob to low position and let warm up for a few minutes.
  2. Operate burner until air is removed from line. Have gas line checked by local gas supplier.
  3. Observe minimum installation clearances (Refer to Owners Manual)
  4. Clean burner (See Care and Maintenance in your Owners Manual)

Possible Cause:

  1. When heated, the vapors from furniture polish, wax, carpet cleaners, etc., turn into a white powder residue.

Corrective Action:

  1. Turn heater off when using furniture polish, wax carpet cleaner or similar products.

WARNING: If you smell gas;

  • Shut off gas supply
  • Do not try and light any appliance.
  • Do not touch any electrical switch; do not use any phone in your building.
  • Immediately call your gas supplier from a neighbor's phone or outside the building and follow the gas supplier's instructions.
  • If you cannot reach your gas supplier, call the fire department.

Possible Cause:

  1. Foreign matter between control valve and burner.
  2. Gas leak

Corrective Action:

  1. Take apart gas tubing and remove foreign matter.
  2. Locate and correct all leaks (see Checking Gas Connections of your Owners Manual)

ProCom does not offer any conversion kits and converting may void the manufacturers’ warranty on gas specific products.

Regulators are sized to the appliance, not the container you are connecting to. There are three (3) key pieces of information:

  • BTU Load of the appliance
  • Operating pressure of the appliance (W.C. 11”-14” of water column pressure)
  • The required inlet and outlet pipe size. ( Refer to Troubleshooting Section)

The “Integral Twin Stage System” is the most common for residential installations. If the propane tank is 15’ or more from the appliance, a “Two-Stage System” is recommended because of the propane required for the appliance to run correctly and efficiently.

FAQ, - 1


  • Heats like a central heating system – heating the air first and then circulating warmth throughout the room, the hot air rises.
  • May take longer to heat the room as it works to “convect” the entire area.
  • Typically work better in insulated areas


  • Heats like the sun, radiating warmth, directly heating the objects in the room first, heating outward.
  • Feels more like standing in front of a fire.
  • Typically works better in un-insulated areas as they will heat objects before the air.

“Soot” is a fine black to brown powder formed through incomplete combustion. For an object to soot, it must be burned at a low temperature with a reduced supply of oxygen. The use of any chemicals in the air may cause a film to develop on windows, walls and ceilings from the combustion process.

Example: Hold a heat-safe glass over a lit candle, a streak of black will appear from the point of contact.

The main causes for products to cause sooting are:

  • Appliance not cleaned or serviced, at least annually.
  • Running a ceiling fan too high or wrong direction.
  • Burning scented candles while burning the unit.
  • Low Gas Pressure to the burner.

A Vent-Free Firebox has “zero” clearance which means these units:

  • Can be placed on the floor without footings.
  • Can be finished up to the face of the fireplace, so that no metal shows after installation is complete.

For installation requirements and further information refer to the Owner’s/Operator and Installation Manual.

Dedicated products are manufactured with parts engineered specifically for either natural gas or propane (LP) and cannot be converted from one gas to another.

Dual fuel products offer the choice of using natural gas or propane (LP)

Natural gas from the ground is odorless. The characteristic "gas" odor is added afterwards by the supplier called “mercaptan”, containing sulfur, which will give it the characteristic "rotten egg" odor.

NG units cannot be connected to a private (non-utility) gas well, also known as “well-head” gas. These are typically found in rural areas where there is not an access to utility owned gas lines. This gas is odorless, therefore unsafe because a leak cannot be detected quickly.

A “BTU” is a British Thermal Unit. BTU is the amount of energy it takes to raise one (1) pound of water one degree Fahrenheit.

  • 1 BTU = the heat generated by 1 lit matchstick.
  • BTU limitations based on the cubic feet of air available in an area.
  • Manifold pressure and orifice size determines the BTU output of the burners.

Wall Heaters and Stoves:

To calculate the maximum BTU’s allowed for an area, follow this formula:

Room Width x Room Length x Room Height x 20
Example: 10 ft. x 20 ft. x 8 ft. =1600 sq. ft.
1600 sq. ft. x 20 = 32,000 (maximum)

Gas Logs and Fireplaces:

The maximum BTU’s for a fireplace or insert varies depending on whether the unit is vent-free or vented.
The maximum BTU’s allowed set depends on:
Front Width – Depth – Height

Example: Front Width: 24” Rear Width: 18” Depth: 15”
Height: 18”
**Space for 18” Vented Log Set
FAQ, - 2

PFA, GFA, Construction & Tank Top Heaters:

Cu. Ft. of Area x .133 x Desired Temp. Rise °F =
BTU Size Needed

Example: Area: 50' x 25' x 10' = 12,500 Cu. Ft.
Desired Temp. Rise: 30°F 12,500 (Cu. Ft.) x .133 (Factor) = 1662.5
1662.5 x 30 = 49,875 (50,000)

In order for an installation to be compliant with Federal Codes, all ProCom units are required to be installed by a liscensed heating contractor, according to all local codes. The Owners’ Manual States that only a qualified agency should install and replace gas piping, gas utilization equipment or accessories, repairs and equipment servicing.

The term “qualified agency “ means any individual, firm, corporation or company that either in person or through a representative is engaged in and is responsible for:

A) Installing, testing or replacing gas piping
B) Connecting, installing, testing, repairing or servicing equipment; experienced in such work; familiar with all precautions required; and has complied with all the requirement of the authority having jurisdiction.

Note: Massachusetts requires Board of State Examiners of Plumbers' approval before installation. For specific ProCom codes refer to: http://license.reg.sate.ma.us/pubLic/pl_products

ProCom vent-free heating products are certified by Product Fabrication Services (PFS) and meet the National Safety Standard ANSI Z21.11.2-2002 and ANSI Z21.11.2a-2003.
The companies that complete this testing for ProCom are:

This certification can be found on the front of the owners’ manual, product hang tags, or the labels on the units.

Canadian Standard Association (CSA) – Canada & US


Product Fabrication Service (PFS)


Omni – Test Laboratories (O-TL)


Note: Underwriters Laboratory (UL) does not certify gas products. They only certify electric products.

Manufacturers of vent-free appliances typically to not recommend not using their products above
4500 –5000 FT. The higher the altitude may cause pilot outages, due to the incomplete combustion of the gas caused by the low oxygen level. Vented heaters are adapted for use at a higher altitude.

Never install the heater:

  • Over 10,000 Btu/Hr in a bathroom
  • Over 6,000Btu/Hr in bathroom (Check local codes.)
  • In a recreational vehicle
  • Where curtains, furniture, clothing, or other flammable objects are less than 36" from the front, top, or sides of the heater
  • In high traffic areas
  • In windy or drafty areas

Please check you local and state codes for vent-free applicance installation.

Please review the owner/operator Installation manual for a specific model.

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is measured in parts-per million(ppm) An average cigarette emits 60-ppm draw or drag. Vent-Free products emit only 8ppm of CO over a three (3) hour period. Occupational Health and Safety Associaton (OSHA) considers air quality at 200 ppm of CO to be unsafe. Vent-Free appliances are 99.9% efficient and are safer to operate than a gas range.

Carbon Monoxide Level of Toxicity:

  • 200 ppm Slight headache within 2-3 hours.

  • 400 ppm Frontal headace with 1-2 hours, becoming widespread in 3 hours.

  • 8400 ppm Dissiness, nausea, convulsions within 45 minutes, insensible in 2 hours.

Vent-free products are AGA approved, therefore certified to conform to National emmissions Standards. A Carbon Monoxide detector is not required for product installation.

All Vent-Free appliances are equipped with an ODS pilot assembly. The purpose of the ODS is to shut off the supply of gas to the heater/fireplace when the oxygen level drops below 18%.

During operation, if the pilot flame goes out for any reason, the thermocouple or thermopile will cool and shut the gas valve that supplies the supply to the burner, shutting down the heater. There must be adequate air ventilation for units to function properly.

ODS system contains a precision orifice. This ODS has a “ruby” orifice and designed to disintegrate with any attempt at drilling it out to enlarge the pilot flame. Additionally, it is not interchangeable with a normal standing pilot. Trying to burn gas at extremely low oxygen levels can cause deadly gases and high levels of Carbon Monoxide.

FAQ, - 5

Low pressure is any pressure below 1 pound per square inch (PSI). When dealing with pressures below 1 PSI, you will see the term "inches" or "inches of water column". This refers to the amount of pressure it takes to raise a column of water 1 inch. There are 27.7 inches of water column (W.C.) pressure in 1 PSI of pressure.

W.C. is measured with a “manometer” (pressure gauge), which measures the pressure of gases and vapors.

  • 7.0" W.C. = approx. 1?4 lb. PSI
  • 13.5” W.C = approx. 1?2 lb. PSI

Regulator w/ Plunger

For LP:Unit needs 11.0” – 14.0” W.C.
For NG:Unit needs 6.0” – 10.5” W.C.

No-Step Regulator

For LP:Unit needs 11.0” – 14.0” W.C.
For NG:Unit needs 5.0” – 9.0” W.C.

FAQ, - 4

Note: The maximum pressure in a residential dwelling is 2 psi. ProCom units are low-pressure systems. For NG, an additional meter maybe needed if dwelling is on a 2 psi systems.

Water vapor is a by-product of gas combustion. An unvented room heater produces approximately one (1) oz. (30ml) of water every 1,000 BTU’s (.3KW’s) of gas input per hour. Unvented room heaters are recommended as supplemental heat rather than primary heat source. In most supplemental heat application, the water vapor does not create a problem. In most applications, the water vapor enhances the low humidity atmosphere experienced during cold weather.

The following steps will help insure that water vapor does not become a problem:

  • Heater sized properly for the application, including ample combustion air and circulation air.
  • Experience high humidity, a dehumidifier may be used to help lower the water vapor content of the air.
  • Do not use an unvented room heater as the “primary heat source”

Example: Vapor (sweating) on windows or walls – unit is too large for the area.

Possible Cause

  1. Control remembers codes from prior operation.



  1. Press MODE/RESET button to clear code and restart heater.

Possible Causes:

  1. No power to heater (All LED's are not powered on)
  2. Bad electrical connection between control and power cord.


  1. Check power cord connections.
  2. Unplug heater. Check all electrical connections. (See Wiring diagram in owner manual)

Possible Causes:

  1. Thermostat setting is too low.


  1. Adjust thermostat to a higher setting by pressing Triangle button or Change to MANUAL MODE by pressing MODE/RESET button


Possible cause:

  1. Supply voltage is above 135 volts
    Generator out of regulation


  1. Confirm supply voltage is below 135 volts.

Possible Causes

  1. Supple voltage is below 95 volts. Poor supply circuit or extension cord too long or inadequate gauge


  1. Confirm supply voltage is above 95 volts. See extension cord requirements in owner manual.

Possible Cause:

  1. Room or ambient temperature exceeds 100o F


  1. Operate heater in a cooler environment.

Possible Causes:

  1. Bad electrical connection between motor and power cord.
  2. Motor locked-fan obstructed
  3. motor locked-pump obstructed
  4. motor defective
  5. Air line or fitting leaking
  6. Pump cover  leaking
    Pump cover screws loose
  7. Pump cover gasket leaking
    Pump output filter clogged
  8. Pump pressure is low
  9. Pump pressure is low. Cannot adjust to specification


  1. Unplug heater, Check all electrical connections. (See wiring diagram in your owners manual)
  2. Unplug heater, Clear fan obstructions
  3. service pump (See owners manual)
  4. Unplug heater. Replace motor
  5. Unplug heater. Check air lines and fittings for leaks.
    Correct all leaks.
  6. Unplug heater. Check pump cover for leaks. Tighten pump cover screws to 10 - 20 in-lbs
  7. Unplug heater. Replace pump output filter. (See PUMP PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT in owner manual)
  8. Service pump (See Owners manual)

Possible Causes:

  1. No fuel in fuel tank
  2. water in fuel take
  3. pump pressure incorrect
  4. Dirty fuel filter
  5. Obstruction in nozzle
  6. Bad electrical connection between ignitor and control
  7. Blown control fuse
  8. defective igniter
  9. defective ignition control assembly


  1. Fill tank. (See fuels in owner manual). Restart heater.
  2. Drain and flush fuel tank with kerosene. (See Storing, transporting or shipping in owners manual)
  3. refer to Pump Pressure Adjustment in Owners manual
  4. refer to Fuel Filter section of Owners Manual
  5. Refer to Nozzle Assembly section of Owners Manual
  6. Check electrical connections. (See Wiring Diagrams in Owners Manual)
  7. Replace control fuse (Refer to Owners Manual)
  8. Replace igniter and control fuse. (See Owners Manual)
  9. Replace ignition control assembly.

Possible Causes:

  1. Not enough fuel in tank to maintain combustion
  2. Water in fuel tank
  3. Pump pressure incorrect
  4. Dirty fuel filter
  5. Obstruction in nozzle
  6. Photocell assembly not properly installed
  7. Dirty photocell lens
  8. Defective photocell


  1. Fill tank. (See Fuels in Owners Manual)
  2. Drain and flush fuel tank with kerosene. (See Storing, Transporting or Shipping in Owners Manual)
  3. (See Pump Pressure Adjustment in Owners Manual)
  4. (See Fuel Filter in Owners manual)
  5. (See Nozzle Assembly in Owners Manual)
  6. Make sure photocell boot is fully seated in bracket.
  7. Clean photocell lens.
  8. Replace photocell.

Possible Cause:

  1. Pump pressure too high
  2. Heater inlet or outlet is covered and unit is not getting enough air for combustion
  3. Fan set screw is loose


  1. (See Pump Pressure Adjustment in Owners Manual)
  2. Unplug heater. Remove obstructions or loose material from heater inlet or outlet.
  3. Tighten fan set screw to 40-50 in-ibs. (See service procedures in Owners Manual)

Possible Causes:

  1. Heater inlet suddenly blocked by debris
  2. Water in fuel tank
  3. Dirty fuel filter
  4. Obstruction in nozzle
  5. Fan set screw is loose


  1. Unplug heater. Remove obstructions or loose material from heater inlet.
  2. Drain and flush fuel tank with kerosene (See Storing, Transporting or Shipping in Owners Manual)
  3. (See Fuel Filter in owners Manual)
  4. (See Nozzle Assembly in Owners Manual)
  5. Tighten fan set screw to 40-50 in-lbs. (See Service Procedures in Owners Manual)

Possible Cause:

  1. One or more of the control buttons is depressed continuously (Stuck)
  2. Defective control assembly


  1. Unplug heater. Depress and release each control button several times to check operation. Every button should click every time it is depressed.
  2. Replace control assembly.

Possible Causes:

  1. Burner orifice is clogged or damaged
  2. Burner is damaged.
  3. Gas regulator is damaged.

Corrective Action:

  1. Clean burner orifice (see Care and Maintenance of your Owners Manual) or replace burner orifice.
  2. Replace burner.
  3. Replace gas regulator.

Possible Cause:

  1. Residues from manufacturing process

Corrective Action

  1. Problem will stop after a few hours of operation.

Possible Cause:

  1. Metal is expanding while heating or contracting while cooling.

Corrective Action:

  1. This is common with most heaters. If the noise is excessive, contact a qualified service technician.


  • Shut of gas supply.
  • Do not try to light any appliance.
  • Do not touch any electrical switch; do not use any phones in your building.
  • Immediately call your gas supplier from a neighbor's phone or from a well ventilated area away from the building. Follow the gas supplier's instructions.
  • If you cannot each your gas supplier, call the fire department,

Possible Causes:

  1. Gas leak. (See Warning Statement at top)
  2. Control valve is defective.

Corrective Action:

  1. Locate and correct all leaks. (Read Checking Gas Connections in your Owners Manual)
  2. Replace Control Valve.

Possible Causes

  • No Electrical power to heater
  • Fan hitting inside of heater shell
  • Fan blades bent
  • Defective motor

Corrective Action:

  1. Check voltage to electrical outlet. If voltage is good, check heater power cord for breaks
  2. Adjust motor/fan guard to keep fan from hitting inside of heater shell. Bend fan guard is necessary.
  3. Replace Fan (See product manual Fan page 8)
  4. Replace Motor (See Service Procedures in Product Manual.)

Possible Causes:

  • Installation or Operation instructions were not followed properly
  • No spark at igniter. To test for spark, follow step 8 under Igniter in your owners manual. If you see a spark at igniter, have heater serviced by qualified service person. If no spark seen:
    A) Loose or disconnected igniter wire
    B) Wrong spark gap
    C) Piezo igniter loose
    D) Bad igniter electrode

Corrective Actions

  1. Repeat installation and operation instructions. See Installation  and Operations in Owners Manual.
  2. A) Check igniter wire. Tighten or reattach loose igniter wire.
    B) Set gap between igniter electrode and target plate to 0.17" (0.43 cm)
    C) Replace igniter electrode.


Possible Causes

  • High surrounding air temperature causes thermal limit device to shut down heater.
  • Restricted air flow
  • Damage to fan
  • Excessive dust or debris in surrounding area.

Corrective Action

  1. This can happen when running heater in temperatures above 85o F (29.44o C). Run heater in cooler temperatures.
  2. Check heater inlet and outlet. Remove any obstructions.
  3. Replace fan. (See Owners Manual)
  4. Clean Heater (See Maintenance in Owners Manual)

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